| Gull Island Hospitality |
| We continued to drive up the road and stopped when we saw the scene above - Gull Island, Newfoundland (not an island). I'm guessing this is the town where Sean McCann was born because Alan always says Sean's from Gull Island. But I thnk he also lived in Carbonear for a while before moving to St. John's as a boy. Pulling over to the side of the road, trying to be mindful of not parking in someone's driveway, we stepped out next to a house for sale to take photos. We were aware of being stared at by some of the neighbors and hurriedly set up our shots. When we turned to go, a woman sporting a cane was walking towards us. "So you're strangers now, are ye?" she asked. When we replied in the affirmative, she asked where we were from, had a little chitchat with us and then wanted to know if we had had lunch yet. "No," I replied, "We've been looking for someplace to get lunch since Carbonear. Is there a place to eat lunch here in Gull Island?" "Yes there is, me love," she said, grinning. "Right there in that house. Come on, I'll put the kettle on." |
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| We shrugged our shoulders, grinned, and followed her up the driveway to her modest house. It was small, but big enough for her. She motioned us into the kitchen where she was joined in no time by a younger man. We sat at the table exchanging small talk with her about how we ended up here (they don't get many tourists this far up the peninsula apparently). The woman's name was Alice (It's H'Alice up here) and I felt like I was in My Fair Lady as we spoke. She put H's where vowels began a word and left them out where H began a word. But she was a generous, outspoken, strong woman and I thoroughly enjoyed the conversation. Her grandson, who had come in from his trailer in the back of her house, was almost indecipherable in his speech. I know he was speaking English, but darn! It was no English I was used to! I got the idea that he had come in to make sure we didn't take advantage of his grandmother's good nature. I could appreciate that. Alice brought out homemade bread and homemade partridgeberry jam. Have I mentioned how much I love partidgberries lately? Candace had clammed up and I figured she was pretty uncomfortable with the situation. I am prone to get her into things she wouldn't necessarily choose. But hey, that's why she likes me, right? LOL! I was hoping that Alice's hospitality was genuine and we were not going to end up like some horror movie. But I had confidence that Alice was the real thing - a true Newfoundlander - and would help us out. She kept bringing out food! At one point I was talking and not paying attention when she asked me if I wanted some meat. I thought it odd to refuse so I said yes, hoping it was soomething I liked. Candace's eyes went buggy when the plate was brought out. It was a large helping of Spam!! Alice put two slices on my plate and turned to Candace who exclaimed with some urgency, "Oh no, thank you, I am allergic to it." That's when she earned a spot on my shit list for a brief time. But Alice provided me with ketchup so I was able to eat it with no problems. |
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| We left scenic Carbonear behind on the superhighway, having taken enough photos to fill an album. We passed many towns on our way north. The road turned sharply at Victoria and we continued off the busy highway and back onto Route 70 - the slow, gentle alternative. Lunchtime had come and gone as we left Carbonear, as we were trying to find a place we could both agree on. Town after town went by without a sit-down place to eat. We finally bought some snacks at a grocery store and continued on in our search for lunch. Passing the scenic towns of Salmon Cove, Broad Cove (so THIS is where it is!) and Northern Bay Sands. I wanted to see the beach, but you have to pay and we didn't have spare money. Could have pushed me over with a feather when I saw you had to pay. Now, in New Jersey, I expect to pay, but HERE? Whoa! |
| The bread and jam were more than delicious and Alice kept our plates filled. She eyed Candace. "Eat!" she commanded, "You have hardly had a thing!" Candace was dutiful and accepted another piece of bread and a biscuit. The tea kettle was never-ending, good thing 'cause I was really enjoying it. Alice told us all about her family - 9 children, 32 grandchildren, 28 great-grandchildren and one great - great grandchild. |
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| I felt sad when we had to leave. But it was getting windy and clouds seemed to be gathering over the peninsula. We had a long ride home to St. John's. We promised Alice we'd send her cards at Christmas and she promised to do the same as we exchanged addresses. Her grandson, 'Arry(Harry) would deliver the mail. Alice is 89 and spends April thru November in Gull Island. Then she goes and stays in St. John's for the winter. She is quite proud that she'll be 90 in March and rightly so. I was so glad we took the chance and accepted her offer of lunch! What a wonderful afternoon we spent with her! Not really wanting to leave, we took a few more photos of the town of Gull Island before we left. |
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| There's a story that goes with this shot. Go to the next page to find out! |
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